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what i have been saying all along: [Jul. 2nd, 2008|12:49 pm]
­­­"The memory of a carefree era when everything was possible serves as a security blanket for a self-doubting nation, Mr Le Goff contends. The 1968 movement sought to break from the past, he says, "but the 40th anniversary has become a moment of nostalgia for a France that no longer has a future"."
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[Jun. 18th, 2008|08:39 pm]

i would have told you i missed you sooner

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but everything fell apart
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friends, make my decisions [May. 2nd, 2008|01:35 am]
[Current Mood |defeated]

summer job possibilities:

1. government work

+ mad money ($15 an hour!)
+ stable schedule
- soul crushing monotony
- full time
- not being able to take my summer class; having to take an extra class some semester or next summer when i want to be doing something different
+ weekends and evenings free
- having to own up to fiscal responsibility


2. waitressing

- less money, potentially by a small margin ($7.75 an hour + tips = awesome if working nights, not so much for lunch shifts and afternoons)
- work evenings and weekends to maximize money intake
+/- summer class, but with less dollarz
+ less soul crushing
+ more spending summer as summer should be spent (beer, books, and biking)

i know that The Responsible Thing is to die a little on the inside and spend the summer answering phones for the government, especially as the bank of mom and dad is hinting about closing my account in the nearing future. all the same, my big plans for long summer days of laziness and bike riding are being burnt in the flames of reality (also burning in those flames: all of my exciting plans for my immediate post-school life, but that's a different story). i don't know if i can deal with my soul being crushed this summer, but i also know that the money is imperative. make decisions for me, please.

if i'd written this last night i would have had a lot more to say about the last few weeks. i'm so exhausted by their culmination right now i can't even attempt it.
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the hills ARE alive, bitches. [Aug. 11th, 2007|01:42 am]
in visiting salzburg, austria, you have two choices. you can stand for hours amongst the throngs of camera-wielding japanese to visit every spot where mozart slept, walked, breathed, drank, etc., most of which are clearly marked by gaudy life-sized cutouts of the composer himself holding a ball of local chocolate which also has his portrait on it. alternately, you can pay thirty euros to spend four hours on an air-conditioned bus with a portrait of julie andrews on the side, singing along to the americanized version of the von trapp family with housewives and retirees from just about every english-speaking country, while touring the 'famous' spots.

clearly, i went with the latter.


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they don't let people go inside anymore after some eighty-year-old american broke her hip recreating the dance scene and tried to sue, but i'm clearly sixteen going on seventeen and in love with a young nazi. word.
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Masterpiece Theatre of the Edible Presents: [Aug. 9th, 2007|10:31 pm]
[Current Location |paris]
[Current Mood | drained]
[Current Music |modest mouse - buttons to push buttons]

The Definitive Selection of the Foodstuffs that Sustained my European Travels, here in all their pictoral glory for your viewing pleasure:


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from the hallowed dining room of the augustiner bierhalle in munich, germany: pork, pork, pork and pork, with some potatoes and sauerkraut thrown in for good measure. i was with an agnostic jew who made a point of repenting before he ate all of his sausage and a good chunk of mine - "well, if what they say does turn out to be true, this meal may be the tip of the scales that sends me to hell." cost with two pints of beer: 17 euro.


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warsaw, poland: i grew up on homemade pierogis and these were still the best i had, until that point, ever tasted (sorry, mom.) filled with some delicious polish ingredients i couldn't identify and served with a side of garlic sauce and white borscht. mmmmmmm. cost: 12 zloty, about 3 euro.


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communism crushed just about every aspect of polish life, leaving a country that to this day is somewhat of a sad, decayed shell...but it did leave these restaurants called milk bars, where you order off of a corkboard with a rotating list of food and pay at a soviet-era cash register then wait as some sour-looking women in blue aprons rattle around a massive industrial kitchen, creating huge pots of just about every typical slavic dish you could ever possibly fathom. when it comes your turn, they glare at you because you can't answer their rapid fire polish questions, slap your food onto a tray, and shove it out at you. in ordering blindly off the menu at breakfasttime, i got this surprisingly delicious cold sweetened milk soup with rice, hot tea with lemon, and that kind of sad looking kielbasa sausage that ended up also being wonderful. cost: 6 zloty, or roughly about negative thirteen euro cents.


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hot dog, train station, lodz, poland. apparently this is what happens when you ask for 'sos' (the blanket word for everything from ketchup to gravy in poland) on your hot dog. the fork sticking out of the side came in handy. 4 zloty.


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pierogi, borscht and croquette, krakow, poland. these pierogi were even better than the last, despite the absence of garlic sauce - they were filled with soft cheese, garlic, and oatmeal. the croquette was a giant hunk of ground beef wrapped in mashed potatoes, deep fried, and smothered in some kind of red sauce that was beyond belief. the borscht was heartwarming. cost: 14 zloty.


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hot dog, train station, prague. the bankomat spit out a 500 kroner note at me, not especially helpful when all you need is a 2kr tram ticket. so i bought a hot dog, which in czech translates as 'dried hunk of sausage, dough made from flour and water, baked, served cold.' it was gross AND the guy tried to rip me off 100kr. cost: 13kr (about 30 cents), my appetite.


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almond bailey's cake, cafe grand orient, prague: i went because the cafe is one of the best preserved examples of cubist design in europe, and if the cake had been bad i still would have felt justified in my visit (the cafe was incredible.) however, the cake was not bad - it was delicious, soft, creamy and so rich that i couldn't finish it. cost: 60kr, or 2 euro.


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train station cafe, prague: my texan hostelmate's eurail timetable lied to me, so having several hours to wait for my train to austria, i had a traditional czech breakfast of potato pancakes and omelette. i still refuse to believe the pancakes were actually made out of potato, as they were a strange shade of not-potato-grey on the inside, but it was yummy and filling nonetheless, especially after three weeks of eating stale bread and instant coffee provided by hostels for breakfast. cost: 100kr, about 4 euro.


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on most trains, when you order food, it was made yesterday in a factory and is popped into a microwave before being delivered to you steaming hot. in eastern europe, if you're lucky enough to be on a train that has a cafe car (usually the international ones, to keep up appearances with the neighbours) there's actually a dude cooking on a gas stove in the back who makes everything fresh to order. nothing was pre-prepared at all - a look into the kitchen revealed a chef chopping, dumping oil into hot pans, etc.as i can barely stand on a train without causing grievous injury to myself or others, my hat goes off to the guy who made this incredible goulash and presented it so nicely, although i still refuse to believe those pieces of bread were the promised 'dumplings'. cost: 75kr, about 3 euro.



...and now i'm back in paris, eating the leftover 'vegetarian' pad thai i bought in interlaken yesterday (secret ingredient: chicken!). today i extended my six-hour route from interlaken to zurich to strasbourg to paris by another two hours in order to take the 'panoramic route through the alps'...a trajectory i slept through. excellent. two and a half days to clean, pack, leave. tonight will be the first uninterrupted sleep i've had in five weeks.
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Les Presidentielles 2007 - I Predict A Riot [May. 28th, 2007|12:37 am]
[Current Music |sonic youth - unwind]



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bastille, may 6: )

***


in other news, i have 'une petite bronchiole', which i'm assuming translates as bronchitis considering the insane quantity of drugs i was thereafter prescribed. which completely explains why today found me standing in the pouring, freezing rain for an hour and a half wearing only a t-shirt in order to see the last day of the first ever exhibition of david lynch's artwork. i left feeling perturbed enough to make my now worsened health worth it.
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paris en grêve [Feb. 9th, 2007|01:43 am]
[Current Location |paris 7e]
[Current Mood | restless]
[Current Music |yesterday's new quintet - i am singing]

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in conversation with a friendly gendarme:
"vous prenez les photos? vous pensez que c'est belle?"
"non...mais pour nous ces types de manifestations sont un peu etrange. pas frequents."
"vous venez d'ou?"
"Canada."
"oh, la, vous etes maintenant dans le pays des experts, ici."
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allow me to rant for a moment: [Jan. 19th, 2007|08:48 pm]
[Current Mood | aggravated]
[Current Music |the hi lo trons - science fiction music]

i like paris. really, i do. there are even occasions where i'd venture to say i love it. i don't know that i'd choose to live here again but if i was offered the opportunity i'd take it. it can be cold, drab, and dreary, but on the other hand there are times and places where it is wonderful.

what i hate is the parisians.

today i was heading home from montmartre, standing on a crowded bus with my arms full of baguette and the kids' snacks for the upcoming week when i dropped my phone. being the cheap crap it is, not only did it fall to the ground it came entirely apart - keypad flung in one direction, back and front pieces in another. even my sim card went flying. as i bent down to pick up the pieces i quickly realized that no one around me had bent to help - not a single person. everyone just watched as i reached under the seats to grab and assemble it before i missed my stop. when i finally stood up again, someone sitting near me asked if i had it all. now, in a normal world, when someone drops something under your seat you at least kick it closer to them with your foot, if not bending down to pick it up, right? it's common courtesy. i had to make do with a "vous avez tout les morceaux?" yes, thank you. i've got it all.

working in a bar i regularly get frustrated by the french. the expats who come in understand that i am one person and there are occasionally up to fifteen people waiting for a drink. they wait their turn and leave a tip, and in response i am cheerful, friendly, and polite. most parisians do not understand this. they want their drink, they want it now, and even if they have no idea what they want to drink and there are many people who were there before them i must serve them before everyone else. if not, i will have to listen to a chorus of increasingly frustrated "mademoiselle! mademoiselle! MADEMOISELLE!" and then stand there for five minutes while they choose between the blanche and the blonde, serve them, watch them get angry when i ask for their cash upfront (because obviously even when the bar is packed i must run a tab for everyone) and serve with a smile knowing that they're not going to leave a tip as the concept of a pourboire is unheard of in france. they are rude, leave huge messes, expect constant service at the tables even when i've explained that it's "service au bar" and always, always get frustrated when i ask them to settle up at the end of the evening. a few weeks ago a group of professional twentysomething musicians came in for dinner - 20 of them, no reservation. the bar is small, and we have one cook in a tiny kitchen. while he is a very a very good short-order cook, he unsurprisingly does not possess the superhuman ability to make twenty meals at once. while waiting for their meals, they dumped garbage all over the floor, spilled candlewax on all of the tables, dropped cutlery everywhere, and poured mustard into every one of our ketchup bottles - and, of course, left no tip. it took me fourty-five minutes to clean up the mess. last night a huge group came, again without a reservation, and expected us to play a dvd for them. first they hassled brooke, the other bartender, and when i came on they immediately zoomed in on me. i tried explaining several times, in both languages, that if they'd called in advance we could have arranged something but there were other customers in the bar, and the dvd player wasn't hooked up to anything. "mais, on peut le brancher!" well, i'm sorry, i don't have the authority to let you play around with our satellite/computer/cd player/amplifier/television wiring. "mais on etait venus ici seulement parce que vous avez un grand tele!" good for you, sir, but if you'd called in advance we could have organized this for you, and even if you'd called,when people ask about the tv it's generally because they want to watch a game. later in the evening i had to chase one of them out of the bar for not paying for his coffees, and was rudely told that coffee in french bars is free (untrue, most french bars charge about four euro for espresso) and that i was too serious to be a bartender because i didn't offer anyone free drinks - when they were all drinking two euro beer, and not all that much of it in the first place.

there are also very strict eating times in france. breakfast is negotiable, because le petit dejeuner isn't a meal, it's a snack involving croissants and occasionally a piece of toasted baguette with nesquick and butter. lunch, however, is from eleven until one, and dinner is from seven until eleven. try to eat outside of those hours and you will be very rudely rebuffed. when i pop into a cafe for a tartine at two o'clock, the waiters become even surlier, and i once had a woman give me the 'no, no, no!' finger-wag for eating a sandwich on the street at 10:30 in the morning.

last week i had a tourist leave me a ten euro tip on a three dollar beer for saying 'thank you'. he told me it was the first time he'd heard it in a week. i knew how he felt.
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wtf. [Dec. 15th, 2006|09:50 pm]
[Current Mood | tired]
[Current Music |colin meloy singing morrissey]

Bens Restaurant closes forever

i keep having a nightmare that montreal is being ripped to shreds in my absence. AND IT KEEPS COMING TRUE.


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***
bens, thanks for the good times. you'll be missed.
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cache-cache with moi? [Dec. 6th, 2006|05:18 pm]
last saturday my american girls and i tried to organize a big game of hide-and-go-seek. inspired during a fit of non-intoxicant related brilliance that would make any middle american soccer mom proud, we decided to encourage everyone we knew to come out and have some old-school fun before hitting the bars. needless to say, the reactions of our invitees ranged from overexcitement (the americans) to utter confusion (the french and the swedes could really not wrap their heads around just why we'd want to play hide and seek ever, much less in public) to excuses ("i'm, uh, *cough* not feeling well...*cough cough*"). in the end, we had about twelve people (a few less after we lost mandoline and her mildly confused irish friends to a bar).

nonetheless, it was awesome.

we played on île de la cité, using the space around and behind the notre dame as our territory, and got two solid matches in before we succumbed to the cold and went to a bar. i hid inside a bush surrounded by police motorcycles ("uh, excuse-moi, monsieur, mes amis et moi jouent a cache-cache, est-ce que je peut cacher ici?"). sam got lightly dampened by the seine ("cholera! typhus! yummy...") and i had a good few minutes trying (unsuccessfully) to convince drunken tourists to play with us. in round one only two escaped capture; in round two i had to bite my tongue as the seekers walked by me not once but twice. a consensus was reached - it will happen again in january, and everyone's going to bring their friends.

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the only photo i got during the game was of the motorbike i crouched behind for half an hour, taken without a flash to avoid detection.


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sexy bar for crazy night? i think yes!
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